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Making a wooden ocarina; How I made my last ocarinas
Topic Started: 15 Mar 2009, 08:52 PM (27,429 Views)
Lanea
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Transverse Ocarinist x 3
Hi, back again :)

As promised I shot a million photos of my next wooden ocarinas during making. Please remind that it is my personal current way of making them and not 'the perfect' or 'standard' way. I used tools I had already, there are other and better possibilities, if you own them.

I start with a picture of the tools I use currently:

http://s11.directupload.net/file/d/1734/57crcpe7_jpg.htm

The ones you cannot go around in my belief are (unless you own some more expensive tools):

saw
small rasps
carving knifes and cutter
sandpaper
drill machine and drills
screw clamps

And of course wood and an idea of your dream ocarina ;)

I'll post the following pictures when I edited them, I hope that doesn't take me as long as shooting them :)


Here are all pictures (rar file)
Thanks to Anto :)
http://www.s-reference.com/ocarinaMaking.rar
Edited by Lanea, 25 Mar 2011, 07:54 PM.
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Lanea
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Transverse Ocarinist x 3
First step is choosing some wood. If you don't have the machines to cut at least one side of your wood even and flat, I recommend choosing some already even wood pieces.
As you can see in the picture my pieces were not perfectly flat, but that is minimal and can be corrected later by hand and sandpaper.
I made my ocarinas out of two halves. By that you can try to match the grain, which can turn out really beautiful. I matched the double ocarina and choose some nice looking not matching whirls in the grain for the sop F (at least I hope it will be one, once finished :) ).

http://s11b.directupload.net/file/d/1734/erawl78e_jpg.htm

The more precise you are with cutting this outer shape, the easier is the work later on. Be careful not to scar the even surface were the halves will be glued later. If they stay flat it is possible to test your voicing before glueing.
(My wall thickness is 5 to 8mm, depending on the ocarinas size.)
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shadowyi
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dysfunctional family
Given my penchant for wooden ocarinas, this is my new favorite thread on TON! Thank you so much for posting this! I'm amazed at the amount of tools needed to make a wooden one though, I somehow only envisioned a saw, sander, and drills.

You're making wooden DOUBLES?! I'd like one. Thank you. I'm deeply interested in how you're going to tune them since I've heard that's the hardest part of a wooden double.
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Lanea
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The inner chamber:

http://s10.directupload.net/file/d/1735/is2t49op_jpg.htm

I handcarved the inner chamber. But of course you can use any tools and machines you can lay your hands on. I like carvind though (its not loud, not dusty and simply fun :D ).

Try to shape the inside of your ocarina with the same gentle curves, as you are planning to have on the outside. By doing that, again, you will minimize the risk of cutting later into your inner chamber. I cannot tell what the tonic of those ocarinas will exactly be at that early state. It is experience of the maker, to shape everytime the same volume... Im not so experienced, but if I work accurate, it is possible to tune the tonic at least one pitch down, if needed (and if I haven't carved the inner chamber too big already, to make it any bigger)

Don't forget gloves, when working with a knife... You will need your fingers to play your baby later on :D

hehe, I am trying to make a wooden double. I don't know if I will succeed yet. It is my first try. I did a harmony, which sounds fine, so I dared to take the risk :D

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Lanea
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Transverse Ocarinist x 3
windway:

http://s11.directupload.net/file/d/1735/9ntzww6f_jpg.htm

I made the voicing on the bottom side of the ocarinas, so I took the bottom halfes and cut the windway into them.
The deepest point should leave your average wall thickness or little less. That will make it easier to manipulate your voicing from the outside if needed. Go as far into the chamber as half of your planned voicing hole. Than you have enough wood left to form the voicing very accurate (if you can cut with a rounded end into the chamber like me, than you can cut nearly the whole size of the voicing hole.)

Be as accurate as possible, because even tiny splinters and uneven points can destroy the sound later (you know what those nearly invisible saliva drops can do to your ocarinas tone... :( )

Before you start to cut the windway out, look at the next photos, they will make the positioning clearer (I hope :D )
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Lanea
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windway and rough voice hole:

http://s11b.directupload.net/file/d/1735/9724fuiv_jpg.htm
http://s11b.directupload.net/file/d/1735/j4oq2qly_jpg.htm

Now comes the most difficult part, the voicing.
But the start is easy. I drilled holes (smaller than the later voice hole) at the end of the windway. You need to look on wood if you hold the ocarinahalf, how I hold them in the second picture. If you look only on air and into the chamber, than your windway is not deep enough (or your chamber too deep ;) )

With this holes we have a point on which we can concentrate the following work:
Bevel from the outside until you reach the same level as the ground of your windway. You should be able to look through the hole when looking from a little above into the windway (as in the upper left picture from of the close ups) and you should only see wood if you look really straight through the windway (the middle picture is nearly held like that, as we still look a little from above, we can still see somewhat through the hole, I forgot to shot an better picture of it here. When we come to the fine tuning of the voicing, there are some better pictures :) )
Now we can 'bevel' from the inner side. Or reshape the inner chamber to our needs. The split airflow should find roughly the same surfaces on the inside and the outside. If you made clay ocarinas or have read some of the other tutorials you already know what we are aiming to.
Try to cut to a straight line (straight only, when looked through the windway. From above it will be curved). Try to reach the same level as the planned upper side of the windway. I recommend leaving 3mm thickness now. When the windway is closed, we can make the voicing sharper and smaller.

So far so good, they really begin to look like ocarinas with that first hole :D
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abseeley
Pendant Ocarinist x 4
lanea im amazed at what you have accomplished with such little tooling! its 8 30 in the morning here and im just making my tea and having notions of toast, but i think im going to head right down to the shop after that and finish/test my jig and take pictures of how my chamber making fared.

I have a question about your windway though, its so deep! would it not be better to keep it shallower and just make a lower set voicing hole? Take a look through Hinds close up sweet potato gallery for what im talking about.
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Glup
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a.k.a totten94
Wow!!
I'm excited! :D
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Lanea
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Transverse Ocarinist x 3
the wegde for the final windway:

I formed a wegde for each ocarina. Each is little different in size, but if the windway was cut accurate, it is possible to make a fitting wegde very fast.

http://s6b.directupload.net/file/d/1735/oneiuoqu_jpg.htm

more details:

http://s7b.directupload.net/file/d/1735/sro7lg3o_jpg.htm

The most important face of the wegde, is the one forming the upper wall of the windway. It has to be perfectly even without splinters, because these will cause turbulences in the air flow later.
It seems to me that both Hind Ocarina and Woodsound ocarinas use maple (or another light colored wood) for this wegde part (to absorb moisture).
Hind uses that hidden wegde like I did, Woodsound ocarinas have a large wegde, which is used as part of the design (you can see it from the outside). :)

(I hope these photos cleared the too large windway problem :) and there are more to come tomorrow)
Edited by Lanea, 16 Mar 2009, 10:14 PM.
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Glup
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a.k.a totten94
Wow!
You are really making progress..!
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abseeley
Pendant Ocarinist x 4
back from the shot, and damn near routed my hand off :O scary stuff!
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Lanea
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Transverse Ocarinist x 3
abseeley
16 Mar 2009, 11:54 PM
back from the shot, and damn near routed my hand off :O scary stuff!
Yikes!
Blood for ocarinas!
I did cut into my fingertip, when working on my first wooden oc... I thought that I cut right through it, but it were merely two little cuts... (though bleeding like hell, I took me two weeks until I could play ocarina painfree again, still have that little scars :) ) Hooray for good leather working gloves!

Last steps on the windway:

http://s7b.directupload.net/file/d/1736/issjs69w_jpg.htm

Not much to say here.
I never take so much wood away to let the wegde fall free into the windway. Its locked somewhat and can only be moved with a little force. By that it is easier to adjust the final position.
I am still an unexperienced ocarina maker in terms of ideal narrowing and length of the windway. Every of my ocarinas take a little different amount of volume or breath, as I experiment on this factor a lot. :) Fun of ocarina making :jumpy:

Oh, and I am currently only editing the photos... These ocarinas are glued at the moment and I work on the shaping and started tuning of the soprano (Its a sop A). So it is not real time progress :)
Edited by Lanea, 17 Mar 2009, 07:58 AM.
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Lanea
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rough voice hole:

http://s6b.directupload.net/file/d/1736/2nttxtrt_jpg.htm

I can't tell which shape is the best. I decide that at the moment based on the wood grain. (sometimes there are some harder or softer parts which lead your rasp to one specific shape). Only thing that can really go wrong with the shape, would be making it too narrow (it should be the same width as the windway), or too big (airy sound). I start always with a pretty small hole and enlarge multiple times to find the right volume. (smaller holes have soft volume, while larger holes are louder, but tend to be airy)
I recommend doing the voicehole shaping always by hand with a small rasp, with any machinery, it is far too easy to cut away too much wood and getting no voice at all.

If you have already some experience on the voicing of clay ocarinas you can apply your knowlegde here. The same things are important. (e.g. take a LED light to shine through the windway to see where your airflow should be divided)
At this state I leave the voice with two sharp edges (upper and lower edge), that is the first possiblity of getting it sounded. The next will be to do it roundly shaped, and the last to make it sharp in the middle. All three can work, but you cannot go back, as cut away wood won't grow again :)
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Lanea
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ok, time for the first voice check :)

http://s2b.directupload.net/file/d/1736/n8jtt8ms_jpg.htm

I had to flatten the uneven surface of one of the ocarinas (the other two were even from the beginning). Now clamping both halfes together and blow into your future dream ocarina, what a great moment :jumpy:
Alas, very often nothing will happen :) Thats mainly due to some air leaks anywhere. Adjust the clamps or glue the wegde (theres often airleak until glued).
And then even when you get tone, it will be of very soft volume. (There even then invisible airleak) That will be better, when glued.
The ocarina in the photograph was making nearly no tone at all, so I enlarged the hole. After that I got a chiffy tone and rounded the voice. The result was a very clean soft tone. A 'D' in that case. Perfect, that is going to be an F-Soprano Ocarina :) If it would have been a D sharp, I could have enlarged the inner chamber now. Depending on your outer design it is possible to enlarge the inner chamber an reach up to one note deeper... (my experience, while working with very small wood pieces, that differs of course if you use bigger ones. But then you will have to cut more wood away to shape the outside)

Wow, the complicated parts are done :D
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abseeley
Pendant Ocarinist x 4
Im thinking about making the switch to hand chamber making, are you using gouges lan? and i found a nifty chair makers tool that might interest us both
http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=390
Its called a pullshave, its used for making the bum-curve of chairs however used the right way could be used to make the perfect sweet potato chamber curve, the only downside is the 100$ price tag

i think im going to invest in some clay ocarinas first to get my hopes back up, wooden ocarinas are a LOT of hard work
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Lanea
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Transverse Ocarinist x 3
making the ocarina complete:

http://s2b.directupload.net/file/d/1736/savlgzfa_jpg.htm

Now we reach a point where I skipped some professional making guidelines. Before you glue the halfes together you should drill the holes and clean the inside of the ocarina free of splinters, which got there due to the drilling.
As I am not a professional maker, and each of my ocarinas is unique I cannot tell how big the hole size will be and (the bigger problem to me) where to place them. It is very hard to place the holes at the correct position if your ocarina is still sleeping inside a chunk of wood... :(

So the way I do it, is:
First glue the halfes together (don't forget to glue the wegde before, or you risk replacing it).
Then start to shape the ocarina somewhat, to be able to imagine the later position of the holes.
Then drill very small holes (about the size of the smaller subhole on any ocarina of your key, do this subhole even smaller.)
Then finish the outside shaping of the ocarina.
Now its time for tuning. Enlarge the holes with a lot of undercutting (that will catch all eventual splinters your drilling caused).
At last follows polishing and oiling...
Pictures and some more explanations on the last points will follow. I am currently working on shaping and tuning. :)
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ubizmo


Lanea
17 Mar 2009, 03:25 PM
Before you glue the halfes together you should drill the holes and clean the inside of the ocarina free of splinters, which got there due to the drilling.
I don't have the skills to attempt this project, but it has certainly been interesting to watch. Before gluing the halves together, would it make sense to apply tung oil to the interior, to limit absorption of moisture?

ubizmo
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Glup
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a.k.a totten94
Wow!
This is still amazing to watch!
And I'm getting more excited! :D
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Lanea
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Transverse Ocarinist x 3
ubizmo
17 Mar 2009, 03:56 PM
Before gluing the halves together, would it make sense to apply tung oil to the interior, to limit absorption of moisture?
Ah, I remember reading that on Mr. Hinds homepage. I will do it with my next ocarina :) Thanks

But if always given time to dry, then the little moisture from breathing shouldn't harm the wood, should it? Anyway some oil shouldn't harm as well... Maybe I give the finished ocarinas a short oil bath :D

(still fine tuning on the voices of the double... That'll take years I fear :D)
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abseeley
Pendant Ocarinist x 4
Moisture shouldn't harm to much, but its over time that it will start to affect the tone of the ocarina, the moisture causes the fibers in the wood to swell giving you a rough chamber :( oil is your friend in this case;)
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Lanea
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Transverse Ocarinist x 3
We're getting nearer to the end of this little photo documentation :(

Here is a picture on some steps of shaping:

http://s10b.directupload.net/file/d/1738/9h8agrvs_jpg.htm

You will certainly need somewhat creative talent to make the outer shape nice to look at. But woodworking is a slow process, so you don't have to fear to cut away to much in an unaware moment :)
It took me very long to shape the two singles, and the double is still untouched :)

I have bathed my wooden ocarinas in oil... And surprisingly the tone has become a little stronger. I don't know if that effect will last, though :) But I will definitely oil my next before gluing, it is a nice effect.

You can see that I have already started to tune the little soprano... I just couldn't wait to play around a bit (even with only some first notes in tune) :D
Edited by Lanea, 19 Mar 2009, 03:59 PM.
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Glup
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a.k.a totten94
Woow!
Really liked the look of the alto (It is an alto, right.. :think: )
Keep up the good work and you might end up as mr. hind! :D
Can't wait to see the double finished! :D
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ubizmo


Lanea
17 Mar 2009, 03:25 PM
Then finish the outside shaping of the ocarina.
Now its time for tuning. Enlarge the holes with a lot of undercutting (that will catch all eventual splinters your drilling caused).
I was thinking... Couldn't you do the tuning and the rough shaping of the ocarina with the two halves clamped together but not yet glued? That would allow you to clean the inside of the tone holes directly, without too much undercutting, keeping the "chimney" shape. Then when the tuning is exactly right and the inside of the chamber is sanded and cleaned and oiled, glue it together permanently. Would that work?

ubizmo
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Lanea
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Transverse Ocarinist x 3
Quote:
 
I was thinking... Couldn't you do the tuning and the rough shaping of the ocarina with the two halves clamped together but not yet glued? That would allow you to clean the inside of the tone holes directly, without too much undercutting, keeping the "chimney" shape. Then when the tuning is exactly right and the inside of the chamber is sanded and cleaned and oiled, glue it together permanently. Would that work?

ubizmo


Yes, I think it could work, but you have to work super precisely to let nowhere air escape. I tried it with an older ocarina, but only could get loud enough sound for the lowest 5 or 6 notes. After that it was all airy and I had to glue it to tune it further.
But I surely will give it a try, when I start on my next ocarinas. My work is still in the rising part of the learning curve, so I have some hopes on that point (inner chamber cleaning) :) Especially as I know, that I am somewhat lazy about it now.


(I once got this problem with airdry clay too. After drying the sound was all airy. I thought the sound hole was broken or something like that, but after a while looking over it I found a nearly invisible scar in the material, where air could escape. I used some nail polish on it and voila, everything was fine again :) )
Edited by Lanea, 19 Mar 2009, 10:15 PM.
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Lanea
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Transverse Ocarinist x 3
Sandpaper and polishing:

I used sandpaper 40 and 80 for the shaping.
Then I tuned the ocarinas. As the surface at this point still is rough, some little scratches from the tuning will be polished out later.

After tuning you shouldn't change the general shape of the ocarina. Especially not if you have used the undercutting technique for tuning. You run the risk of enlarging your holes if you take away additional wood from the outside of the ocarina.

http://s11b.directupload.net/file/d/1738/23hd7aoz_jpg.htm

I use a conus shaped tool to start the round shape of the holes. I do not drill with it, I only give it two or three turns to let the thing mark where I have to correct the shape of the hole. (Larger wood drills will always cause splinters). Marked like this, I enlarge the hole with a small round key rasp (I did that with my first ocarinas, until I found out, that work with the dremel is faster) or with milling tools.
The main difference between the tools is that method one leaves you a little part of 'chimney' shape. So you can be sure to keep your tuning even if some tiny splinters should occur on the ocarinas surface touching the holes. But if you can only get your hands on little and cheap equipment, method two will work nicely, too. :) I still tune very little holes like that, because you don't risk to cut away too much wood that fast.

Of course you can tune without any undercutting if you don't like it, but I have the impression that ocarinas with good undercutting are less airy... (But that maybe a personal experience)


After the ocarina is tuned, there are only two small steps left:

http://s11.directupload.net/file/d/1738/rl7owuo7_jpg.htm

Polishing and oiling.
I use sandpaper 120, 320, 600, 1200 to polish the wood (I don't know if you have to go that high... But it surely makes a nice glossy look). Be somewhat careful near the voicing with the first two steps, because the sandpapers grain is still rough enough to destroy it.
And then, when your hands and ocarina are finally dustfree:
Oil! :jumpy: I love the effect the first layer of oil has on wood.

http://s10b.directupload.net/file/d/1738/ow3ozd3v_jpg.htm

Heres my current acacia ocarina set :) Turned out to be worth the hard work. I think we can perfectly justify and understand the price tag of wooden ocarinas now ;)

That was how I make wooden ocarinas! :D
(I will have a ocarina making pause, to play somewhat again and have some other things done (yes, I have another life beside ocarina making :) ) I will post pictures of the double as soon as i'll have finished it.)
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ubizmo


Lanea
19 Mar 2009, 09:45 PM
Yes, I think it could work, but you have to work super precisely to let nowhere air escape. I tried it with an older ocarina, but only could get loud enough sound for the lowest 5 or 6 notes. After that it was all airy and I had to glue it to tune it further.
I think I'd try using a thin layer of denture adhesive around the edge, to seal the two halves together temporarily. Then when the tuning and rough shaping are done, clean it off.

ubizmo
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kyleismr.smiley
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<(*~*)>
Wow thats sweet! SInce there is only 2 wooden ocarina dealers I know of. The one on maparam, and hind.
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Lanea
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Transverse Ocarinist x 3
ubizmo
19 Mar 2009, 11:07 PM
Lanea
19 Mar 2009, 09:45 PM
Yes, I think it could work, but you have to work super precisely to let nowhere air escape. I tried it with an older ocarina, but only could get loud enough sound for the lowest 5 or 6 notes. After that it was all airy and I had to glue it to tune it further.
I think I'd try using a thin layer of denture adhesive around the edge, to seal the two halves together temporarily. Then when the tuning and rough shaping are done, clean it off.

ubizmo
haha, :D
You are following this project with a lot of interest, thank you for your creative thoughts. I had rubberband in mind, but denture adhesive or something like that applied only on the outside should work perfectly...
As I said :) theres still a lot to learn and to improve in the whole process. And you can learn so much from your faults, in say... just forty ocarinas in the future, I will have no such problems anymore :p
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Glup
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a.k.a totten94
WOOOOOW!! :D
They just look nicer and NICER every time I see them! :jumpy:
But where did the double go? :?
How much do you think you'll take for an ocarina when you start selling? (If you start :think: )
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Adam
Triple Ocarinist x 4
. . .
Edited by Adam, 27 Jun 2016, 02:40 PM.
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speckles
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I’ve been hypnotized

Your tutorial is fascinating, and your photos and descriptions are excellent! Thank you, Lanea! :D
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Lanea
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Transverse Ocarinist x 3
Thank you all for your encouraging comments... That makes me want to open a shop immediately :D
Alas, I have other duties and I am sure that I won't sell in the near future. Sorry about that. Maybe I sell these prototypes when I one day have made some even better ones for myself :p

The double is waiting at my working place, I hope that I soon find time to continue with it. I will post pictures of it here. And I have found the next pieces of nice looking wood... just laying next to my double. Depending on its outcome I may even try a triple next :p
Experimenting is sooo much fun :D

Ah, I found something out during this making session. The windway should be narrowing in width and height. Not only in height, as I've done it this time (An experiment to optimize the speed in the working process). It is possible to get nice sound out of it, but its harder, as you have to work more accurate on the sides of your voice hole. :)

Nice one, AdamR45!
I thought of making an ocarina in that way too, but as I had enough wood and carving tools already I started right out with a sweet potato :)
Try one made out of some harder wood, that will cause less splinters around the holes, then it would look really professional. :) Or you just bevel the holes of this one a little to cover the splinters and then start polishing it and oiling. That will make it look perfect :D I like the positions of your fingerholes, they seem to be very comfortably set for an inline :)



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King Ocarina
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Pére Poches Drôles
absolutely beautiful

really helped me understand how the windway works for wooden ocs
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Jon_K
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Inline Ocarinist x 3
Wow...just wow. Lately, I've been scouring the internet for anything resembling a wooden oc tutorial. This turned out to be a really informational and detailed tutorial...I'm going to use this process to make one after my classes are over, with a very small amount of hand tools.

These images are really all I need to put the missing pieces together of how I thought I'd be doing it.

Thank you for sharing this with everyone.
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Lanea
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Transverse Ocarinist x 3
:) I hoped to spread the wooden ocarina making virus ;)
It is so much fun. And I think wooden ocarinas have the sweetest sound of all.

Tadaa! Here it is:

http://s4b.directupload.net/file/d/1746/trzfati7_jpg.htm

A wooden double with extended range, it even plays additional extra high notes on the second chamber :) Alas my tuners battery is low and some little fine tuning is still to be done... I just couldn't wait for the supermarket and oiled it meanwhile to motivate myself :)
I really don't know why the holes on the second chamber had to be that big. Maybe the shape of the chamber was too narrow... But luckily the hole size seems not to affect the tone. I will nevertheless slightly alter the chambers shape the next time :)
Ah, and I had by chance the opportunity to add an additional subhole which reaches to low G# or very softblown to G. Also I made an additional hole on the second chamber to reach low D. Just to give that nice idea a try (I've seen it first on nobles ocarinas). :)

Update on my wooden ocarina collection:

http://s4b.directupload.net/file/d/1746/b7wzpvi4_jpg.htm

They are from left to right (somehow):
Hind Tenor F
Woodsound Alto C
Four Acacia Ocarinas (Double AC, Tenor A, Sop F, Sop A)
Common Spruce Ocarinas (Sop E, Harmony AC/SF, 3xSop A)

Have Fun :TON:
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Glup
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a.k.a totten94
Wow! The double is AMAZING!!! :jumpy:
And so are the rest of the collection! :D
Can't wait until you post more of these! :D
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shadowyi
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dysfunctional family
Lanea, you absolutely break my heart saying you won't be selling your ocarinas. I'm always on the hunt for wooden ocarinas (especially doubles!) and yours looks absolutely amazing. When do we get to hear sound samples? Hats off to you for such skill and I do hope you'll sell a couple in the future!
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Myung
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= Mighty Mohawkus =
Incredible!
I'm so impressed by these new ocarinas, especially the double!
It looks like alot of fun to make a wooden ocarina, but also ALOT of work! O_O
So yeah Hind's prices are more than justified imo. :D
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Tye Possum
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The wandering musician
:O !!!!! Awesome! Very nice work there Lanea. MUST MAKE WOODEN OCARINA!!!!! Too bad I can't get any decent wood around here... Well I'll figure something out, great instructions, I hadn't even thought about a wedge in the windway. :thumbsup:
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ocarevolutionary
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ocarina inventor/designer

Spectacular work, Lanea! I'm more than impressed. I was worried that your second chamber was too small (edit-I meant large), but I guess it worked out! So is the range from low G/G# to the C a little over two octaves higher?

edit- (I bet there'll be a lot of folks finding out that its not as easy as it looks in your pictures :( )
Edited by ocarevolutionary, 28 Mar 2009, 12:03 AM.
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Angelodeath
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Is the Immortal Technique
Il be your first customer if you ever sell any!! Awesome job!
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Lanea
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Transverse Ocarinist x 3
ocarevolutionary
27 Mar 2009, 04:53 PM
Spectacular work, Lanea! I'm more than impressed. I was worried that your second chamber was too small, but I guess it worked out! So is the range from low G/G# to the C a little over two octaves higher?

edit- (I bet there'll be a lot of folks finding out that its not as easy as it looks in your pictures :( )
Yes, the range is from G# to C over two octaves. With overblowing C# and D are playable, too. But as this is a first try of a wooden double, I am currently thinking of drilling a thumb hole into the higher chamber to have the high D as an 'normal' note. Not decided on that experiment yet :)
The next time I will plan the lower chamber a slightly bit larger to have a clean loud deep G and the higher chamber with a little bit flatter shape, so the holes wont come out that big... (hopefully).
There is still a lot to learn. The fine tuning is still in progress, I hope to add sound samples soon :)

http://s4b.directupload.net/file/d/1746/rffgk6sx_jpg.htm (where I started ocarina making ;) )

And of course it is not so easy and fast as it looks. But don't be scared anyway, if you think that you have some talent in wood, give it a try :) heres my very first ocarina (I still keep it... nostalgia :D ) I have never had talent with clay, but I already worked a lot with wood, so after about 30 Ocarinas you will get better ;) (But I still am not good and consistent enough to sell... The voicing is giving me every time shivers, and I correct a lot and alas very often don't know, what made it work finally :) )

This double is the most interesting ocarina I made so far. I am always trying to make the perfect ocarina for me... And that would be a wooden ocarina (for the lovely sound quality) with the range of a triple... :p I hope I can make that one day... I hope to reach the highest notes via overblowing, than I won't need a third chamber, which would be faster in making and playing :)

Lanea is always dreaming :D
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ocarevolutionary
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ocarina inventor/designer

Guess the starter of the topic "Why there are no wooden doubles/triples" will need to change the title!

Your first oc is...very cute :giggle: It kind of looks like bread that didn't rise correctly, was undercooked and got bitten by a dog. Your recent ocarinas are gorgeous works of fine art! (I want one too!)

About getting higher notes on that second chamber... :shakefist: confidentiality agreements.. argh! Wish I could say something.
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shadowyi
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dysfunctional family
Quote:
 
Il be your first customer if you ever sell any!! Awesome job!

Aw heck no, that's me, and I'll happily delete all your posts in regards to buying Lanea's ocarinas. XP




(kidding... I think.) Hehehehe! :D
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Lanea
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Transverse Ocarinist x 3
I recorded a soundsample with the new wooden double :)
Again, alas, you will hear my breathing louder than the ocarina... :( Thats my crappy headset, sorry for that.

I tried to play that song by ear:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdRAnvze98U&feature=channel

Im not satisfied with the tuning of the subholes. I started to tune them, with way to less breath strength ( I don't know what I thought with that :facepalm: )
And the higher chamber is starting to get somewhat flat within the highest notes, but I don't want to make the holes bigger as they currently are. That will become better the next time.
It is my first double ocarina and I think I can correct that in future versions :)
Attached to this post:
Attachments: Acaciadouble.mp3 (2.02 MB)
Edited by Lanea, 29 Mar 2009, 01:31 PM.
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